Labels bio : quelles garanties?

Organic labels: what guarantees do they offer?

What is an organic label?

An organic label is a certification issued by a recognized body accredited by the state. Many organic labels exist on the European market. However, not all bodies have the same level of requirements. So, what guarantees do organic labels offer?

Organic labels: What guarantees do they offer?

Organic labels share a common prohibition on the use of certain substances, such as synthetic fragrances and colorings, GMOs, mineral oils, artificial preservatives, ingredients obtained through environmentally harmful processes (PEGs), or those involving the death of animals. Furthermore, the label guarantees that the products are not tested on animals.

Organic labels: Their limitations?

The presence of an organic label does not guarantee a 100% organic or 100% natural cosmetic product. Many products are composed primarily of water. However, this ingredient cannot be certified organic since it is not derived from agriculture. Furthermore, these labels allow the use of processed ingredients, such as esterified and hydrogenated oils, which are chemically modified, low-quality, and produced at low cost. They also allow a proportion of synthetic ingredients (the percentage is not specified for most, but 5% for Ecocert).

An organic label certifies a product, not a brand; a brand can therefore offer both a labeled and an unlabeled product. Some labels incorporate this aspect into their certification. For example, Natrue requires a brand holding the label to certify 75% of its other products, while for Cosmébio it's 20%.

Labels encourage the use of more environmentally friendly packaging and better waste and energy management. However, without formal obligations, these recommendations are left to the discretion of each brand. Virtually all standards allow PET bottles, and although this type of plastic is recyclable, the process is costly, very energy-intensive, and the plastic cannot be recycled indefinitely. A simple incentive is not enough to address environmental responsibilities.

"Reading the ingredients list is essential to know what you're buying."


An overview of organic labels: GUARANTEES, strengths and weaknesses

Ecocert label Ernest Ernest
Ecocert / Cosmébio

The label comes in 2 levels of certification:

  • Cosmebio Bio: Requires a minimum of 10% organic ingredients in the entire product and 95% of all plants used to be organic.

  • Cosmébio Eco: Requires a minimum of 5% organic ingredients in the total product and 50% of all plants used to be organic.

Key features:

  • Minimum 95% natural origin ingredients (including water)

  • Synthetic colors and perfumes, petrochemical derivatives (silicones, phenoxyethanol, parabens, paraffin…), ethoxylated materials (PEG, Sodium Laureth Sulfate) are prohibited.

  • PVC packaging is prohibited.

 

Weak points:

  • Only 10% of ingredients are of organic origin (5% with the eco label) in the finished product

  • Palm oil and its authorized derivatives

  • Esterified and hydrogenated oils are permitted.

  • 5% of permitted synthetic ingredients

  • Authorized Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

  • There is no obligation to use 100% recyclable packaging.

BDIH Label Ernest Ernest
BDIH is a German label

Key features:

  • Synthetic colors and perfumes, petrochemical derivatives (silicones, phenoxyethanol, parabens, paraffin…), ethoxylated materials (PEG, Sodium Laureth Sulfate) are prohibited.

Weak points:

  • No minimum percentage of naturally derived or organic ingredients

  • Restricted list of permitted synthetic preservatives

  • Authorized palm oil and derivatives

  • No restrictions on esterified and hydrogenated oils

  • There are no criteria requiring the reduction of packaging waste.

  • PET packaging permitted

Natrue Label Ernest Ernest
Natrue

The German Natrue label offers 3 levels of certification:

  • Natural cosmetics: No minimum requirement for ingredients from organic farming

  • Natural cosmetics, partly organic: Requires a minimum of 15% plant-based ingredients in the entire product and 70% of all plant-based ingredients used to be organic.

  • Organic cosmetics: Requires a minimum of 20% plant-based ingredients in the entire product and 95% of all plant-based ingredients used to be organic.

Key features:

  • Synthetic perfumes and dyes, petrochemicals and sodium laureth sulfate are prohibited.

  • Plastics containing chlorine (PVC) are prohibited.

  • Report on sustainable development or study on the life cycle impact of mandatory products

Weak points:

  • Between 10 and 20% of the ingredients in the entire product are of organic origin.

  • No minimum percentage of organic ingredients for the first category

  • Restricted list of permitted synthetic preservatives

  • Authorized palm oil and derivatives

  • No restrictions on esterified and hydrogenated oils

  • Authorized Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

  • PET packaging permitted

Nature and Progress label Ernest Ernest
Nature & Progress

A French label that guarantees, among other things, that 100% of the plant-based ingredients are organically grown. The products are guaranteed free of petrochemicals, synthetic products, and dyes. The requirements also cover waste management, packaging, and facility maintenance.

Key features:

  • 95% minimum of ingredients of natural origin

  • Palm oil and its derivatives are prohibited. (The only label to impose this)

  • Natural raw materials must come from organic farming whenever possible.

  • Chemically derived ingredients are only tolerated if no bioavailable ingredient can replace their function.

  • Colours, perfumes, antioxidants, preservatives, oils and other petrochemical derivatives (silicones, paraffin) are prohibited.

  • PVC and EPS packaging prohibited

Weak points:

  • There is no ban on the use of esterified or hydrogenated oils (chemically modified oils of poor quality and very low cost)

  • No limitations on the maximum percentage of synthetic ingredients

  • PET packaging permitted

label cosmos organic Ernest Ernest
Cosmos Organic

Resulting from a harmonization effort between the various existing organic standards in Europe, the organic labels BDIH, Cosmebio, Ecocert, ICEA and Soil Association have decided to come together under a common standard: COSMOS.

This organic label requires a minimum of 20% organic ingredients in the entire product and 95% of all plant-based ingredients used to be organic.

Key features:

  • Ethoxylated materials (PEG, Sodium Laureth Sulfate) are prohibited.

  • Use of raw materials that comply with the criteria defined by the CITES Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora

  • Ban on PVC and polystyrene for packaging

Weak points:

  • Only 20% of the ingredients in the finished product are of organic origin.

  • No minimum percentage of ingredients of natural and organic origin

  • 2% of petrochemical compounds allowed in the finished product

  • Authorized palm oil and derivatives

  • No restrictions on esterified and hydrogenated oils


Organic products without a label?

An organic cosmetic product indicates that it has been certified as meeting the specifications of a label. Given the limitations of these labels, some natural cosmetic brands do not seek certification, even though they meet or exceed the criteria.

At Ernest Ernest, we are demanding when it comes to the quality of our ingredients. Good skincare requires good raw materials. We use organic and/or sustainably sourced ingredients, and 100% beneficial and natural ingredients. To ensure consistency between our commitments and our actions, we exceed the requirements of existing labels. Therefore, we have chosen not to adhere to any.

Our approach encompasses environmental aspects. We therefore strive to minimize our ecological impact at every stage of product design, by prioritizing short cycles and zero waste, choosing not to over-package our products and opting for recyclable and/or reusable glass bottles and jars.

Our products CONTAIN:

100% natural ingredients (vs. 95% natural origin for labels, including water)

100% of the plants are organic or sustainably harvested (vs. 0% to 95% of all plants used are organic, according to the labels)

Our products DO NOT CONTAIN:

0% mineral, esterified or hydrogenated oil (no restrictions in the labels)

0% palm oil (no restrictions in labels except Nature et Progrès)

0% palm oil derivative (no restrictions in labels except Nature et Progrès)

0% petrochemical-derived material

0% silicone, synthetic ingredients or fillers.

0% preservatives

0% colorant

0% paraben

0% chemicals

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